Today our wake-up call was at 4:00 AM for a 5:00 AM departure for the Cairo airport for our flight to Luxor. I was mentally prepared for Egyptian security so I didn’t let it bother me when I was felt up twice. Literally there was not a part of your body they don’t touch – twice. This was only a domestic flight. Bad Sally, who was here 2 months ago, says international flights are much worse.

Our first stop was at the Temples of Karnak and is dedicated primarily to Amun and dates from as early as 2000 BC. This was the first place we saw hieroglyphics. Some of the colors were still visible even though they have been in the sun for over 4000 years. There are over 25 temples and chapels in this huge complex, including separate shrines for the three boats that took the statues of the gods on their annual trip on the flooding Nile. There are 134 massive sandstone columns covered with carvings and paintings.

After we finished at The Temples of Karnak we drove to our ship and boarded the Esplanade. Because we were starved we immediately went to lunch and were served a beautiful buffet. There was plenty for me to eat including several Egyptian dishes that are becoming my favorites, very close to Turkish food. At this point I was assigned my own waiter who’s job was to make sure I had the kinds of foods that would meet my needs. After I made him understand that cream of mushroom soup was not vegan we were good to go. He kept insisting that mushrooms were vegetables. My meal consisted of a special salad (because I don’t eat Caesar dressing), vegetable soup that the chef made especially for me (and Peggy) and a layered eggplant dish with different vegetables. By far, my meal was better than the beef or fish dinner served to my table mates.

Dessert was a birthday cake for someone sitting at our table. The waiters came out, singing, dancing and playing drums. It was very reminiscent of cruising 30 years ago.

After unpacking and relaxing for several hours we left for the Luxor Temple to see the magnificent statue of Ramses II. This temple is on the Nile River and was built by King Amenhitep who reigned 53-1390 BC and dedicated it to Amon – Ra, King of the gods. It was finished by Tutankhamen (King Tut) and added to by Ramses II. Apparently Ramses II was quite an egomaniac and made sure that his “stamp” was on everything, whether he build it or not, hence, the huge statute of him at the front of the Luxor Temple. Ramses II ruled Egypt for 66 years. In case you wondered he had 111 children.

Between the Temple of Karnak and the Luxor Temple runs the Avenue of the Sphinxes. Archeological evidence indicates that Hatshepsut, the only female Pharaoh, started the construction of this avenue. It is approximately 2 miles long and is lined on both sides with 807 Androsphinxes.

After seeing everything that could possibly be seen at Luxor we stopped at a place that sold artwork painted on papyrus paper. We saw a very interesting demonstration on how it was made. Then let the selling begin. I think that I was probably the only person who did not buy anything. Some of these people spent well over $1000 on some pieces that will need to be framed when they get home. My bet is that many of them with remain in the tubes until they are sold at a garage sale.

We then returned to the boat for dinner and an exhibition by a belly dancer. Most of us went to sleep after dinner, missing the belly dancer. Another early wake up call tomorrow morning. We are leaving for the Valley of the Kings at 6:30 AM! Our guide, Tarek, definitely believes in beating the crowds at these venues. Although I am not happy when the alarm goes off, I am very happy seeing things with no crowds.